A look inside a typical 10W LED floodlight.04:33

This is a look inside a typical 10W LED floodlight.
These lights tend to have a back and front assembly. The back assembly is where the electronic driver (ballast) is located and the front assembly is basically a big heatsink for the LED and a reflector and front glass arrangement.
These lights are very serviceable and hackable. They tend to use standard 10W LED modules and matching power supplies. It’s usually easy to swap the LED for either a new white one or a colour of your choice. In this light I swapped the original cold white LED for a blue one.
It’s important to note that the 10W LEDs have an array of 9 chips in them and they can be wired in one of two ways. All in series giving a combined voltage of about 27V and a current of about 350mA, or as a series parallel array of three sets of three LEDs in series all wired in parallel. In the latter case the voltage will be around 9V at about 1000mA (1A). The first LED I fitted was a 9V type and caused the light to strobe as the ballasts overload protection circuit kept kicking in because the ballast was designed for the higher voltage and lower current version.
For the cost these lights are actually quite outstanding. The design is very good in that the LED is directly mounted to a very capable heatsink on the outside of the unit. The separation of the ballast and LED is good because it keeps them thermally separated. As always with Chinese lights, check the integrity of the earth connection. They don’t seem to take grounding too seriously.