Surfing is a fun water sport where you can ride on top of waves. How exactly does this sport work, and can understanding science make you a better surfer? Trace is joined by Debbie Berebichez from Outrageous Acts of Science to explain all the science behind this radical sport.
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The Science of Surfing
“Dude, keep missing those killer waves? Maybe ‘rocket’ science can help.”
How Surfing Works
“Everything about surfing, from the ability to stay afloat on the waves to the necessity of duck diving, comes from basic physics.”
The Physics of Ocean Waves
“Even before I was a physics major on the icy banks of the Raritan in New Jersey, I was fascinated with the ocean; where the waves came from, sand dune formation, tide forecasting, etc.”
Ocean in Motion: Waves and Tides
“Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would apply to any other waves you might discuss in science classes.”
How Wave Energy Works
“Wave energy, in one sense, is just another form of solar energy.”
Water Waves
“Standing on a beach and watching the waves roll in and break, one might guess that water is moving bodily towards the shore.”
The Science of Surfing
“Examine the bottom of a surfboard and you will note that it curves gently up at the tail and at the nose. This is called the bottom rocker of the board. The rocker at the rear helps you to turn the surfboard.”
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Light: Wave Vs. Particle
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Physics of Figure Skating
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