I’ve been using the original laundry equipment that was in this house when I moved in and it was already giving issues. The main issue was the drum bearing which was very loose and made a lot of noise in use. It also leaked at the bearing when I caused huge foamy incidents.
This new machine is my preferred brand of laundry equipment. Indesit. Just plain mass produced machines that are reliable by virtue of the higher sales volume meaning that all the bugs get ironed out quickly, and at a lower profit they don’t want too much comeback.
Here’s a list of the machine’s components, what they do and the likely problems. It’s very easy to get spare parts online these days, so fixing a machine yourself is usually a good option. Just be extra careful with making sure the machine is unplugged completely when you are working on it. The mix of water, cramped spaces, large areas of grounded metal and exposed electrical connections pose a significant shock hazard.
The mains inlet and filter. Just a means of bringing the mains into the unit and providing electrical noise filtering at that point. Most common mode of failure is to start causing earth leakage issues or just blow the mains fuse repeatedly. Easy to swap in the rare instance it fails.
The controller. These used to be horrendously complex mechanical cam switches, but now they are a very standard little control computer incorporating a motor drive and switching facilities for the solenoid water valves and door lock, plus various sensor inputs. The main difference between different models is the software that allows extra (mostly useless) features in “luxury” models. Main failure mode is water damage or just age related failure. These are one of the most expensive components, but for older machines can often be sourced second hand on eBay. Component level repairs may be possible.
The control interface. This is just a remote button, knob and LED array that communicates with the controller via a serial interface. Main failure mode is water damage, particularly if it gets into a button. Usually repairable after disassembling and cleaning.
Door interlock. This is one of the most failure prone devices as it can be damaged by pulling the door hard while locked or slamming it. The unit usually contains a PTC thermistor block that heats up when power is applied and causes the bimetallic lock to operate. The main control power for the machine also goes through the lock so the motor can’t run or the unit fill with water while the door is not properly locked. Easy to source online and change. The use of a thermal mechanism makes it very simple and also gives an automatic door-release time delay when the machine is turned off.
Liquid level sensor. This is a diaphragm switch coupled to the drainage pipe by a length of hose. As the water level rises the pressure of the air in the tube activates various level switches. Most common failure mode is failure to detect water level. Easy to change.
Water solenoid valves. These tend to fail open circuit and the machine will not fill properly. You can get a replacement assembly, or just a replacement coil and carefully lever the original one off to slide the new one on.
Motor. The earlier machines used a universal motor with carbon brushes onto a commutator. The brushes are prone to wear over time and can be replaced. The new motors seem to be polyphase motors with no commutator. The one in this machine is impressively small and quiet. If a motor burns out it’s a tricky situation as the controller may be damaged or may itself have damaged the motor. The hardest bit about changing the motor is getting the belt on and off. You have to ride it round the drum pulley. If an old belt starts slipping it can make a squealing noise. You can get spare belts online.
Heater. This is used to either fully heat the water, or in machines with a hot and cold water supply it boosts the temperature if needed. Most common failure mode is intermittent tripping of the RCD/GFI when the heater comes on. Spares are available online and fairly straightforward to fit.
Drain pump. Used to pump the water out of the drum. Most common failure is getting blocked. On most machines the lower front panel can be popped off to expose a filter trap that can be unscrewed to clean it out. Be aware that any water in the drum will come out when you unscrew it! The pumps are pretty reliable electrically, but spares are again available online.
The modern machines are so simple and minimalist inside that repairing them is usually straightforward. Just make sure you get the right component by noting the exact make and model of your machine.
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